924 Queen Street West, at Shaw, 416-535-1655. In the heart of a hip Toronto enclave known as West Queen West, just west of Trinity Bellwoods park, sits an urban version of an Italian trattoria. With the relaxed vibe of a neighbourhood hangout, the laid-back locals chow down at either the long, marble-topped bar or in the cozy booths in the back, all well-lit by the warm, retro lighting. The attitude-free staff effortlessly keeps things moving, even during busy weekend brunch. Small by contemporary standards, head chef Christina Barone’s decidedly modern menu has standouts such as a munti (wild mushrooms in tomato sauce with parmigiano) and gluten-free pizzas for dinner, and the Cruz, an egg, chorizo, whipped goat cheese and red pepper jelly that will delight both the sweet and savoury sides of your tongue, but sadly served only at brunch. The antipasto Bar One for two is almost a requirement. In one word, bar one is delizioso.
Open daily 5 to 10pm; Friday and Saturday nights until 12am. Closed some holidays. Licensed. Access: three steps at door, washrooms downstairs.